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All about Suits
The Silhouette: The Cut or Shape of a
Suit
The shape you are in goes a long way toward determining what
shape you should be in suit-wise. Well-built men appear elegant
in just about any cut. A rather thin, small-boned man will look
best in a suit with a narrow cut, narrow lapels, and
close-fitting trouser legs. Large men have to be more careful,
though they still have choices, even in double-breasted. One
possibility for tall men: the six-to-one double breasted (a
six-button jacket that fastens at the bottom button), because
the longer roll of the lapel makes it flattering. If that trait
doesn't apply, try a four-to-two. The freshest look
double-breasted is the new six-to-two silhouette, which work
best for almost all men, no matter how compact.
In the realm of single-breasted, the three-button suit offers a
very modern line, but broad men, beware. The higher the button
stance, the greater the risk of looking likes a man in a barrel.
To prevent that, we recommend a classic two-button. The deeper V
of the lapels shows more shirt, creating a fit that fits just
about any physique.
Colors
The traditional colors regarded as correct for a suit are dark
blue, dark to very light gray, and black. It should certainly be
in one of these colors if it is to be worn for business in such
fields as finance, the law, commerce, or politics. A brown or
green suit will do only at the weekend or for sporting
occasions.
Vents
The center vent is the hallmark of a traditional American suit.
Side or twin vents are very English and smartly complementary to
a fitted double-breasted. Vent allows freedom of movement, and
you can put your hands in your trouser pockets comfortably
without pushing the jacket out of shape. Unvented jackets are a
European styling detail and generally make the body seem taller
and narrower; they look good on men with rather flat behind. If
you have full behind, vented jacket is most flattering.
Note: The double-breasted jacket always has either two side
vents or no vents at all, never a vent at the back of the
jacket. |
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